Collagen has become a buzzword in the skincare industry, celebrated as the ultimate supplement for rejuvenating skin, bringing back elasticity, and reducing the visibility of wrinkles. But how effective is it, really? As the most popular “skin care supplement”, collagen promises a lot, but we’re here to take a deep dive into whether these claims hold up under scientific scrutiny.

What is Collagen?

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, acting as the primary building block for skin, muscles, tendons, and ligaments. It's like the glue that holds our tissues together, providing structure, strength, and elasticity. In our skin, collagen forms a network of fibers that support its firmness and elasticity.

However, as we age, collagen production slows down, leading to the visible signs of aging like wrinkles and sagging skin. Moreover, environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution can also break down collagen fibers, leading to accelerated loss of skin elasticity.

Loss of collagen with aging affects more than just appearance; it also impacts overall health. Reduced collagen can lead to joint pain and stiffness, weaker bones and muscles, slower wound healing, and weaker blood vessels, increasing the risk of cardiovascular issues. As we age, the efficiency of these processes declines. This is where collagen supplements and topical products come into play, aiming to boost the body's natural collagen production or replenish lost collagen.

Common Sources of Collagen: Does Origin Matter?

When it comes to collagen supplements, the source of collagen often comes up as an important factor. This focus on origin arises from the belief that different sources may offer varying benefits or be more effective for specific health or beauty concerns.

While there are 28 identified types of collagen in the body, most supplements focus on Types I and III, which are particularly beneficial for skin health and overall connective tissue support. Here is a closer look at the common sources of collagen:

1. Bovine Collagen: Sourced from cow hides and bones, it's rich in Types I and III collagen, which are beneficial for skin, bones, and joints.
2. Porcine Collagen: Obtained from pig skin, it's similar in structure to human collagen and is often used in medical applications.
3. Marine Collagen: Extracted from fish scales and skin, it's known for its high bioavailability (how easily it is absorbed and acting in the body) and is rich in Type I collagen.
4. Chicken Collagen: Primarily sourced from chicken cartilage, it's rich in Type II collagen, which is beneficial for joint health.

A review of multiple studies found almost no difference in effect between the different animal origins of supplements: chicken, pig, cow, or fish collagen worked almost equally well on hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle reduction. Generally, the benefits were noticeable 60 and 90 days after starting the supplements and continued for 30 days after stopping the treatment.

While the animal-based sources are the most common, there are also non-animal alternatives available for those seeking vegan or vegetarian options. However, it’s important to note that these are not collagen products, but substances like minerals and amino-acids that could enhance the body’s natural collagen production of collagen in the skin.

The main difference between animal-sourced collagen and plant-based alternatives is the following: animal-based collagen is directly extracted as collagen and is structurally similar to human collagen, which makes it practical for supporting skin, joint, and bone health. On the other hand, plant-based collagen alternatives do not provide collagen directly. Instead, they supply the body with the necessary nutrients, which are essential for the body’s collagen production. While these plant-based options can support collagen synthesis and offer additional health benefits, they might not be as immediately effective as animal-derived collagen in directly replenishing collagen stores.

Topical or Dietary: What’s the Difference?

When it comes to collagen, the form in which you take it—topical (in cosmetics, applied on the skin surface) or dietary—can have different purposes and effects.

Topical Collagen:

These are creams, serums, and lotions that contain collagen or ingredients that claim to stimulate collagen production. Large molecules like collagen are too big to penetrate the skin barrier. Instead, topical collagen products may provide a temporary plumping effect, improving the skin's hydration and appearance on the surface. The layer formed by topical collagen can help trap moisture in the skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

There are many active ingredients that stimulate collagen production in the skin; however, this is not a form of topical collagen per se, and collagen itself has never been shown to stimulate collagen production when applied in skincare cosmetics.

Dietary Collagen:

Collagen supplements, often in the form of powders or capsules, promote collagen production from within. The collagen supplements interact with fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen, and trigger signaling pathways, which increase the activity of collagen-producing genes. Later, it integrates with the existing collagen network in the skin, reinforcing the skin’s structural framework. Studies have shown that dietary collagen can improve skin elasticity and hydration and reduce wrinkles over time, as the body uses these amino acids to reinforce the skin’s natural structure.

Is it worth it?

While collagen supplementation or topical application will not reverse the damage accumulated over the years of UV exposure and internal changes, there is evidence it can help with overall skin elasticity, minimize the appearance of wrinkles, and increase skin hydration. However, the effects are only visible in about two months of daily supplementation and are not long-lasting.

The extent of the impact will also depend on the extent of the damage: while it can help with micro wrinkles under the eyes, it will not make a lion's wrinkle disappear. Therefore, while collagen supplementation offers some benefits for skin health, its effects are modest and should be viewed as a supportive measure rather than a transformative solution for significant skin damage.

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