100 Face
Sunscreens:

Virtual Skincare Product Try-Ons

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a number provided by the manufacturer indicating how much longer protected skin can be exposed to UV-B radiation before burning, compared to unprotected skin. For example, SPF 30 means it would take 30 times longer for skin to burn.

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UV-A vs. UV-B – What’s the difference?

• UV-A Radiation: c.a. 6% of sunlight is made from this type of radiation. With its longer wavelength, it penetrates deep into the skin, even on cloudy days or through windows. UV-A rays are the primary culprit behind premature skin aging. 
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• UV-B Radiation: While only making up about 1.5% of sunlight, UV-B rays are the primary cause of sunburn and the most direct source of DNA damage to the skin. Although more intense than UV-A, UV-B rays don't penetrate as deeply. 

Here's a simple way to remember the difference: UV-A is for Aging, UV-B is for Burning.

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What is the PA grading system?

Developed in Japan and widely used in Asian sunscreens, the PA system indicates the level of UV-A protection a product offers.

• PA+: Some UV-A protection
• PA++: Moderate
• PA+++: High
• PA++++: Extremely high UV-A protection

In Europe, a “UV-A in a circle” logo indicates that UV-A protection is at least 1/3 of the SPF value.

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How did we grade it?

We relied on manufacturer-provided SPF and PA values, which are standardized according to regional regulations.

Sunscreen Types

Sunscreens can be classified into:

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Mineral Sunscreens (Physical Sunscreens)

Mineral sunscreens use natural minerals like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to form a physical barrier that sits on the skin’s surface. This barrier reflects and scatters harmful UV-A and UV-B rays, preventing them from penetrating the skin. Because they stay on top of the skin rather than absorbing into it, they tend to be gentler and are a popular choice for people with sensitive skin.

Pros

• Immediately effective after application
• Great for sensitive skin
• Less likely to cause irritation or allergies
• Generally considered safe for the environment ("reef-safe")

Cons

• Can leave a white cast on the skin, especially on darker tones
• Thicker texture, can feel heavier on the skin

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Mineral Sunscreens (Physical Sunscreens)

Chemical sunscreens contain carbon-based compounds like avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octocrylene, which penetrate the skin and absorb UV radiation. The absorbed UV energy is then converted into heat and released from the body. These formulas tend to be lightweight and invisible, making them ideal for daily wear and layering under makeup.

Pros

• Lightweight and easy to spread
• Often invisible after application — no white cast
• Great for daily use under makeup

Cons

• Higher risk of skin irritation or allergic reactions
• Some ingredients may degrade under sunlight (photoinstability)
• Certain chemicals can have a negative environmental impact (e.g., harm to coral reefs)

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Hybrid Sunscreens

Hybrid sunscreens combine mineral and chemical filters to take advantage of both technologies. They are formulated to provide broad-spectrum protection while improving texture and skin feel. These use both reflection/scattering (from minerals) and absorption (from chemicals).

Pros

• Balanced protection across UV-A and UV-B
• Smoother application than pure mineral sunscreens
• Less white cast compared to pure mineral types

Cons

• May still include synthetic ingredients that can irritate sensitive skin
• Environmental impact depends on the chemical components used

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How did we grade it?

We determined the type by reviewing the ingredient list and manufacturer data.

UV Coverage

This measures how effectively a sunscreen absorbs UV light across the spectrum — meaning both UV-A and UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause long-term skin ageing, while

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How did we grade it?

• A+: Complete absorbance of both UV-A and UV-B
• A: Effective protection against both UV-A and UV-B
• B: Partial coverage (e.g., protects well against UV-A or UV-B, but not both)
• C: Minimal protection — either low absorbance or only covers a small part of the UV range

Filter Type

Filters are the active ingredients in sunscreen that do the actual work of protecting your skin from UV radiation. Depending on their type, they either absorb, reflect, or scatter harmful rays like UV-A and UV-B. Sunscreen filters are grouped into three main categories:

• Organic – Synthetic Filters (Also called “Chemical Filters”): These are lab-made, carbon-based molecules like avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate, and octocrylene. They absorb UV rays and convert them into harmless heat.
• Organic – Natural Filters: These are plant- or microbe-derived compounds, such as mycosporine-like amino acids, carotenoids, or certain polyphenols extracted from algae, fungi, or herbs. Like synthetic filters, they absorb UV radiation but are generally seen as safer and more environmentally friendly.
• Inorganic Filters (Mineral or Physical Filters): These are mineral-based ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They sit on the skin’s surface and reflect, scatter, and absorb UV radiation.

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How did we grade it?

We evaluated not just what type of filters a sunscreen uses, but how effective, stable, and skin-friendly they are.

• A+: Hybrid or optimized blends — products that combine filter types for maximized UV coverage, high stability, and minimal irritation
• A: Uses any well-performing filter type (synthetic, natural, or mineral) with no major drawbacks
• B: Relies mainly on synthetic filters, which may be effective but come with photostability issues or irritation potential
• C: Contains weak or outdated filters, low UV absorbance, or ingredients known to be unstable or irritating

Stability

Stability indicates how resistant a sunscreen’s active ingredients are to breaking down under sun exposure. This depends on the chemical structure of each filter and whether stabilizers are used in the formula.

• Highly stable: Titanium dioxide (TiO₂), zinc oxide (ZnO), ethylhexyl triazone, astaxanthin
• Moderately stable: Octocrylene, homosalate
• Low stability: Octinoxate, avobenzone

Here's a simple way to remember the difference: UV-A is for Aging, UV-B is for Burning.

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How did we grade it?

Grading was based on lab data showing how well each compound retains its protective properties when exposed to sunlight.

• A+: High
• A: Medium/High
• B: Medium/Low
• C: Low

Skin Benefits

Some sunscreens go beyond UV protection by including skin-loving ingredients that nourish, hydrate, and soothe. These bonus benefits can make a real difference in how your skin feels and looks — especially with daily use. We looked for ingredients like:

• Antioxidants (e.g., ascorbate, vitamin E, carotenoids) that help fight oxidative stress and prevent skin ageing
• Hydrating agents (like glycerol, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides) that lock in moisture and support the skin barrier
• Anti-inflammatory compounds (such as vitamin B3/niacinamide, allantoin, and panthenol) that calm irritation and redness

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How did we grade it?

• A+: Contains antioxidants, hydrating and soothing agents for enhanced skin support
• A: Offers basic hydration benefits
• B: Minimal extras, just functional SPF
• C: Lacks beneficial ingredients or contains potentially irritating ones

Safety for environment

Some sunscreen ingredients, especially certain chemical UV filters, can be harmful to marine ecosystems — affecting coral reefs, algae, and aquatic life. These substances may contribute to coral bleaching and water pollution, particularly in popular swimming and snorkeling areas.

To help consumers make eco-conscious choices, we looked for sunscreens labeled as:“Reef-safe”, “Free from oxybenzone, octinoxate, and nanoparticles”, “Biodegradable in aquatic systems”

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How did we grade it?

• A+: Clearly labeled reef-safe, non-toxic to marine life
• A: No known harmful ingredients, generally considered safe
• B: Includes some irritants or questionable compounds
• C: Contains filters with known environmental risks

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are special compounds that help protect your skin by neutralizing harmful molecules called free radicals or ROS (reactive oxygen species). These free radicals are produced when your skin is exposed to sunlight, especially UV rays, and they can damage skin cells, speed up ageing, and cause inflammation.

In sunscreens, antioxidants like vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and astaxanthin work alongside UV filters to reduce oxidative stress and boost your skin’s defense against long-term damage. Including antioxidants in sunscreen makes the formula not just protective, but also skin-repairing and anti-ageing — a powerful combo for daily skincare.

Hydration agents

Skin hydration is essential for keeping the outer layer of your skin (the stratum corneum) soft, smooth, and healthy. When your skin is well-hydrated, it functions better as a barrier — helping protect against UV rays, pollution, and irritation.

Sun exposure can increase water loss from the skin, leading to dryness and discomfort. That’s why many sunscreens include hydration agents like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or ceramides. These ingredients help replenish moisture, improve how sunscreen feels on the skin, and even enhance its effectiveness by supporting even application and better absorption.

Undescribed extracts

Some sunscreens include plant extracts or botanical blends where the exact composition isn't clearly defined. These are often labeled with generic names (like “algae extract” or “herbal complex”) without detailing what specific compounds they contain.

While these ingredients might offer skin benefits, their effects are uncertain because we don’t fully know what’s inside or how each component interacts with the skin — or with other ingredients.

• Are they harmful? Not necessarily, but they’re also not guaranteed to be safe or effective.
• Does a higher number mean better? No — having more of these extracts doesn’t mean the product is better. It just means there’s more we can’t confidently assess.

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In short

We noted the presence of these extracts, but didn’t treat them as a clear positive or negative due to their unknown impact.